Page 1 of 8 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 78

Thread: FYI: Remote keyless entry

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    West Sydney
    Posts
    5,858
    Users Country Flag

    FYI: Remote keyless entry

    Thought I'd write up this thread for those who want to DIY fit an aftermarket keyless entry (not alarm). The reason is I went through quite a bit of trouble, mainly because of some misinformation (yeah, we have TOO MUCH in this day and age). How ironic that I've written this up then

    1. First of all, there IS an OEM remote keyless entry module that is a plug and play unit.



    It's inclusive of all lock features, and this includes opening/closing all windows with the remote. Part number is 1H0 054 640B - I double-checked this with VW Australia (Denlo Group Parts) and they indeed do have them in the country. However, they wanted ~$300+ for the unit. Forgive me for not remembering the exact price.

    2. My next port of call was the great VWVortex. Any Mk3-er that uses Vortex should know about Dan J Reed's DIY page. He has installed a very simple aftermarket keyless entry unit (Omega Research REC43T + DLPP3 polarity switcher) that does pretty much the same functions as the OEM unit above, except he managed to relay in a trunk popper too. You can read all about it in a DIY he wrote up and a very lengthy discussion in the corresponding Vortex thread.

    At this point, I was pretty convinced with giving this unit a try. Long story short, it doesn't work as straight forward as Dan J Reed's DIY article. Our door lock setup are somehow different to the NA Mk3 Golf door lock setup, so we can't just simply tap in unlock and lock triggers to the corresponding wires on our cars. I couldn't get it working at all and had no idea why; eventually, I reluctantly gave up and sent it back for a refund.


    3. I went to buy another aftermarket keyless entry kit, and stumbled upon a unit (HT18 being sold by VirtualVillage (anyone wanting to buy stuff from there, use discount code XY3MF for 25% off). It was pretty cheap, coming in at ~$45 shipped.



    Installation was pretty straight forward - follow the wiring schematics for the pneumatic lock. Make sure the jumper position is at 3.5 seconds.


    The "Green/Blue Main" wire from "Door lock switch" to "Pneumatic lock" is the black/red wire that connects to the central locking motor. This is located under the driver's side taillight:


    Then hook up the power and ground. The unit also comes with a flasher that you can hook up to your hazards but I haven't done that yet and don't know what would be the easiest way.

    Rest of the instructions can be found here:


    The problem with this wiring is that it doesn't simulate the window opening/closing upon unlocking/locking. I'll be looking into it soon as it really is a handy function.

    4. Another aftermarket keyless entry unit I found was one that incorporates the switchblade key fob (albeit a replica). This one can be available via Rightclick2003 (eBay shop; search for KE60bPLUS or KE60wPLUS - difference is just in colour highlights) and TMTuning.



    They're more expensive than your typical aftermarket remote keyless unit but they've done all the work in using the switchblade key fob as the remote. I've searched for reviews and found that the key fobs are a bit lacking in quality compared to the OEM units, but I think that's to be expected.

    I also found the corresponding wiring diagrams for these too; here they are for interest's sake:

    Oh, and these incorporate the window close function. Nothing about window open though.

    5. I also looked into locally-available units (those sold in audio shops etc.) and found the Dynamco/Cyclops KE-CLR-TX90 to be a very comprehensive and neat-looking unit. I called up a few places (LS Audio in Lakemba stocks these) and the unit comes in at a hefty $100.



    Wiring schematics for this unit can be found here. This unit DOES cater for pneumatic locks AND window closing as well.

    That's about to the extent that I've been looking into keyless entry units. Now I'm gonna somehow try and see how I can incorporate the window roll up/down feature with the press of a button... any ideas very welcome!

    Edit: DIY guide to retrofitting your current remote into a genuine switchblade. Credit goes to Cybersombosis for this.
    Last edited by rayray086; 23-09-2008 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Pic resizing

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Kilsyth, VIC
    Posts
    6,304
    Users Country Flag
    I love you Ray

    Will have to have a better read through the various options when I get home tonight, but it looks very promising.

    *Theoretically* you should be able to simply wire into the lock/unlock contacts in the drivers door and get it working... but I haven't got round to trying that myself. Again theoretically it works on the prinicple of momentary contact unlocks the door, longer contact then starts the window function. What this means is you need a remote that works a little different to most.

    A stock remote sends an signal which then closes the switch for a predetermined time, some more fancy ones will hold that contact as long as you hold the button on the remote, which is what you want for the window feature.

    I'm trying to get away without adding an additional keyfob to me keys, especially now that I have the switchblade key, ideally I would be able to integrate the transmitter in that to whatever system I get for the OEM look and feel, but that replacement generic switchblade might work out OK if I can transfer the inner workings to mine. (Reminder to all to be aware if you have the immobiliser the replacement switch blade may or may not suit since you need to get your chip into it very close to the key itself... it comes down to the fob itself and how much you want to (or can) cut up the insides)

    Very good write up Ray, I might have some bits to add soon after I buy some of those bits you've listed


    If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you. | Refer a Friend - AussieBroadband $50 Credit

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    3,009
    Users Country Flag
    Pwah excellent write up, I'll defnately have to look into this soon...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australia?
    Posts
    6,035
    Users Country Flag
    Once again the king of DIY hits the nail on the coffin
    I'm soo euro even my missus is shaved...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    West Sydney
    Posts
    5,858
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    Cheers guys.

    Quote Originally Posted by The_Hawk View Post
    *Theoretically* you should be able to simply wire into the lock/unlock contacts in the drivers door and get it working... but I haven't got round to trying that myself. Again theoretically it works on the prinicple of momentary contact unlocks the door, longer contact then starts the window function. What this means is you need a remote that works a little different to most.

    A stock remote sends an signal which then closes the switch for a predetermined time, some more fancy ones will hold that contact as long as you hold the button on the remote, which is what you want for the window feature.
    Yeah that's the premise by which the Omega Research module works on (the one the Yanks use, #2). They just tap the module lock/unlock pulse wires into the lock/unlock wires that hook up to the driver's door. They have a remote programming setting where the unit sends the signal for a length of time (like in #3), or whenever the button is held, so that allowed for the opening and closing of windows.

    I managed to find the lock and unlock wires, which were the green and grey wires on our cars. Tried tapping into them like in the Dan J Reed's DIY and I got nothing out of it... tried tapping it into different locations, like at the passenger side front door, and directly to the central locking motor in the hatch, but still nothing...

    Edit: Added a link to a walkthrough on how to retrofit your remote circuitry to the switchblade.
    Last edited by rayray086; 23-09-2008 at 01:53 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Bondi
    Posts
    173
    Great info there Ray. Much appreciated.
    //:MK3 Golf/2.0/15's/Stock Height/Smoked Repeaters/Mk4Badge/Alpine Head Unit

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    1,785
    Users Country Flag
    Raymond comes to the rescue once again!

    I had a go at installed a keyless entry kit I bought from Jaycar the other week, but could not find the relevant wires listed in the DIY on Vortex. I guess I was looking in the wrong place (drivers side kick panel) and all pulses i managed to find for the doors were negative rather than positive.

    I will have another go at this when I have some spare time as Im really keen on getting it up and running.

    Thanks Ray, your a champ! This forum would be stuck without you!!

    | MY15.5 Mk3 Octavia vRS TSI | DSG | Black Pack | H&R Springs | 18" BBS RSII |

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Ermington, Sydney
    Posts
    4,421
    Hey Lorenz, did you have a quick look at the wiring on the other side? It may sound a bit farfetched, but maybe the wires are the same regardless or the driving side on our cars? For example their driver's side positive wiring etc may be our PASSENGER side positive wiring etc.

    Thanks Ray for the information, I have wanted to do this since I got my car so I'll definitely look back to here when I get some time!
    Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    West Sydney
    Posts
    5,858
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Lorenz View Post
    I had a go at installed a keyless entry kit I bought from Jaycar the other week, but could not find the relevant wires listed in the DIY on Vortex. I guess I was looking in the wrong place (drivers side kick panel) and all pulses i managed to find for the doors were negative rather than positive.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mrk_Mickey View Post
    Hey Lorenz, did you have a quick look at the wiring on the other side? It may sound a bit farfetched, but maybe the wires are the same regardless or the driving side on our cars? For example their driver's side positive wiring etc may be our PASSENGER side positive wiring etc.
    The door lock schematics are somewhat different between the American and European models. The American models react to positive pulses as the DIY suggested. The way our ones work is still a mystery to me - the lock/unlock wires would have constant power through them, but when the key is turned to lock/unlock, the corresponding wires loses its power momentarily. I have a 12V+ and 12V- tester and it was both that went blank when this happens...

    Following the pneumatic lock diagram, the wire that we CUT is the one that is black/red leading to the central locking motor; we then tap the LOCK signal into the wire leading up to the central locking motor, and tap the UNLOCK signal to the other side of the wire. This is where I'm upto and I can lock/unlock using the remote, but not wind the windows up nor down.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    670

    nice write up Ray! always so detailed...

    i already have an after market kit in mine so I'm pretty happy. luckily it was in the car when I bought it.

Page 1 of 8 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
| |